Where to Stay in Lake Como: Why Location Matters More Than You Think

If you’re trying to figure out where to stay in Lake Como, the location you choose can completely change the trip you have.

And I don’t just mean whether your hotel has a lake view.

Before visiting, I think it’s easy to look at a map, find somewhere beautiful that says “Lake Como,” book it and assume you’ll figure out the rest when you arrive.

But Lake Como doesn’t really work like that.

There are towns scattered all around the lake. There are villages tucked high into the mountains. Some places are connected by train. Some are better reached by ferry. Some are easy with a taxi. And some make infinitely more sense if you have your own car.

We stayed at Il Larice d’Oro in Sueglio, a tiny mountain village sitting high above Lake Como.

And I loved where we stayed.

I loved our host. I loved waking up in the mountains. I loved being able to hike straight from our front door. I loved the wild drive up to the village and feeling like we’d left one version of Lake Como behind and entered an entirely different one.

But I also kept thinking about how differently I would have felt about this accommodation if I had arrived expecting to travel Lake Como exclusively by train.

Because this wasn’t “step off the train and walk to your hotel” Lake Como.

This was drive 30-ish minutes up a mountain Lake Como.

And that’s exactly why where you stay in Lake Como matters more than you might think.

Lake Como vs. Como City: They Are Not the Same Thing

This is probably the first thing I’d explain to anyone planning their first trip here.

Lake Como is the lake.

Como is a city on the lake.

I know that sounds painfully obvious once someone says it, but I think it’s incredibly easy to search “hotels in Como” when what you actually mean is “I want to stay somewhere around Lake Como.”

Those are two very different searches.

Como is a proper city at the southwestern end of the lake. It has restaurants, shops, transportation connections and plenty of reasons to visit.

But you absolutely do not need to stay in Como city to visit Lake Como.

In fact, depending on the trip you’re imagining, you might not want to.

There are towns and villages all around the lake, and where you choose to base yourself determines how easily you can get to the places you actually want to see.

Varenna, Bellano, Bellagio, Menaggio, Como, the mountain villages above them, they’re all different experiences.

So before booking a beautiful room because the listing says “Lake Como,” zoom out on that map.

Then zoom out again.

And figure out exactly where the hell you are. Or, just contact me to plan it for you so you don’t have to struggle with any of the logistics.

Where We Stayed in Lake Como

We stayed at Il Larice d’Oro in Sueglio, a small mountain village above the eastern side of Lake Como.

The property sits at around 1,150 meters above the lake, surrounded by mountains and hiking trails.

Getting there from the lakeside meant leaving the towns behind and climbing farther and farther into the mountains.

And I mean climbing. If you get carsick, Italian mountain villages might not be for you. Those roads are wild.

They twist back and forth up the mountain with the kind of turns that make you wonder who first looked at this landscape and thought, Yeah, we can put a road here…

But the farther we drove, the quieter everything became. The lake disappeared below us. The tourist traffic disappeared. The landscape changed.

And eventually we arrived somewhere that felt completely removed from the Lake Como I’d seen all over Instagram.

Staying in Sueglio: Why It Worked So Well for Us

The important part is this…We had a car. That changed everything. If we wanted to head down to Bellano or Varenna, we could. If we wanted to spend the day on the lake, we could.

But when we were done, we could drive back into the mountains and leave the busiest parts of Lake Como behind.

One day, we didn’t have to drive anywhere at all. We walked out our front door and went hiking. That’s what I loved about staying here.

The mountains weren’t just the backdrop to our Lake Como trip. We were actually staying in them.

But that leads me to the biggest piece of advice I took away from this trip…

Where to Stay in Lake Como Depends on How You’re Traveling

If you’re researching where to stay in Lake Como, don’t start with the hotel. Start with your transportation. Are you renting a car? Are you traveling through Italy by train? Do you want to rely on ferries? Are you comfortable taking taxis or arranging private transfers?

Do you want to walk out of your hotel and immediately be in a lakeside town?

Those questions matter here.

A lot.

Where to Stay in Lake Como Without a Car

If I were doing this trip without a car, I would personally choose somewhere with convenient rail connections and easy access to the lake.

Varenna is an obvious choice. Bellano is another.

La locanda del viandante, Bellano– This is going to be your budget option. Super close to the train station and ferry terminal.

Villa Varenna, Varenna– Just a short walk from the Varenna-Esino train station, this is a great option if you want the classic Lake Como experience without renting a car. You’ll also be well positioned to use the ferries to explore other towns around the lake.

Villa Rêverie Boutique Hotel, Bellano– A more elevated boutique option right on the lake while still being within walking distance of Bellano’s train station. A good middle ground if you want something that feels special without sacrificing easy transportation.

Hotel Olivedo, Varenna– A historic lakefront hotel in an incredibly convenient location near Varenna’s ferry terminal and train station. You’re paying more for the location here, but this is exactly the kind of place where spending more can make the logistics of your trip significantly

Hotel Royal Victoria, Varenna– The splurge option for travelers who want a more luxurious Lake Como stay without giving up the convenience of Varenna. You’ll have the lake outside your door while remaining well connected by both train and ferry.

There are plenty of other possibilities depending on what you want to do, but the important thing is to look at the actual transportation connections before booking.

Our accommodation in Sueglio would not be somewhere I’d casually book because I saw “Lake Como” in the description and assumed I’d simply hop off a train and walk there.

The nearest train stations may not look terribly far away when you’re looking at distances on a map. The problem is that maps are flat. Mountains are not. Sueglio is high above the lake, and reaching our accommodation involved driving up winding mountain roads.

Could you potentially arrange transportation up there without renting a car? Sure. Would I choose it if my entire Lake Como itinerary depended on easy train and ferry access?

ABSLOUTELY not. And that’s not a criticism of the accommodation. It’s exactly the opposite. The remoteness was one of the reasons I loved it. It just creates a completely different trip.

Where to Stay in Lake Como With a Car

Having a car opens up another side of Lake Como entirely. You’re no longer limited to towns with train stations or places within easy walking distance of a ferry terminal. You can stay in the mountains. You can stop in smaller villages. You can pull over when a view makes you yell, “WAIT.”

You can also experience Italian mountain roads, which should probably qualify as their own tourist attraction.

There is, however, a trade-off.

Parking around the popular lake towns can be frustrating, and driving isn’t necessarily the easiest way to move between every famous destination.

So even though we had a car, I wouldn’t rely on it for absolutely everything.

That’s another important distinction, having a car doesn’t mean you shouldn’t use Lake Como’s boats and trains.

It simply gives you more options for where you can stay.

Here are my top recommendations:

B&B DA-DI, Colico– A simple, budget-friendly option in the northern Lake Como area with private parking. Having a car makes staying farther from the famous central-lake towns much more realistic and can also open up better-value accommodation options.

Hotel Villa Colico, Colico– A great option if you want flexibility. There’s parking for your car, but you’re also close to Colico’s train station and the lake, meaning you can leave the car behind when public transportation makes more sense.

Hotel Restaurant Meridiana, Bellano– A small, family-run lakefront hotel with parking available and easy access to Bellano. This is a nice compromise if you want to stay directly on Lake Como while still having the freedom of your own car.

Il Larice d’Oro, Sueglio — Where We Stayed– This is where we stayed and the perfect example of why having a car changes your accommodation options. High in the mountains above Lake Como, you’re trading walkability to ferries and trains for quiet, nature and hiking right outside your door, a trade I was very happy to make.

Hotel Tullio, Gravedona– A more quieter northern part of Lake Como with parking, lake views and more space to relax away from the busiest tourist towns. A good choice if you have a car and want the lakefront experience without needing to stay around Varenna or Bellagio.

l Larice d’Oro Review: What Our Stay Was Actually Like

There are accommodations I remember because the room was beautiful. There are accommodations I remember because the view was incredible. And then there are places I remember because of the person who welcomed me into them.

Il Larice d’Oro was that kind of place.

Our host was incredibly kind and welcoming, but what struck me most was how interesting he was. He was obviously a wealth of knowledge about the area, but our conversations stretched far beyond Lake Como.

He had worked as a lifestyle photographer and shared one of his photography books with us. The entire book was filled with photographs of people around the world playing games from their respective countries and cultures.

I could have sat there flipping through it forever. Because this is the part of travel that I think gets lost when we reduce places to itineraries.

You go to Lake Como because you’ve seen the villas. You want to ride the boats. You want the photograph of the mountains behind the water.

And then somehow one of the things you remember most is sitting with a stranger looking at photographs of people playing games halfway around the world.

That’s travel. At least, that’s the version of it I keep chasing.

What We Did During Our Lake Como Stay

We didn’t try to see every town around Lake Como. I don’t think we needed to. We hiked. We wandered. We drank coffee. We took a boat onto the lake.

We drove those wild mountain roads and we gave ourselves enough time to actually look around.

We did the obligatory grocery shopping trip as one does when you have a car that you can fill to the brim with Italian goodies!

Hiking Monte Legnoncino Straight From Our Front Door

One of my favorite parts about staying in Sueglio was that one morning we didn’t have to get in the car at all.

We put on our hiking shoes, walked out the front door and headed up Monte Legnoncino.

Our accommodation was already sitting at around 1,150 meters (3,773 feet) above sea level, but the summit of Monte Legnoncino reaches 1,711 meters (5,614 feet). So even though we were starting halfway up a mountain, we still had roughly another 560 meters (1,840 feet) of elevation to gain before reaching the top. 

Our route was roughly 10 kilometers (6.2 miles) round trip, and that elevation comes at you pretty quickly.

It was a climb. But the payoff was ridiculous.

Monte Legnoncino sits high above Lake Como, and as you climb you get these huge views over the upper lake and surrounding mountains. The area is also scattered with old military roads and fortifications connected to the Cadorna Line, defensive positions constructed around World War I that you can actually walk through!

Eventually we reached the summit at 1,711 meters. For perspective, Lake Como itself sits only around 200 meters above sea level.

So you’re standing roughly 1,500 meters, almost 5,000 feet, above the lake below you. And that’s what I mean when I say staying in Sueglio gave us a completely different Lake Como experience.

Down on the water, you’re looking up at these enormous mountains thinking about how beautiful they are.

The next morning, we were standing on top of one.

Taking a Private Boat on Lake Como

If you’re coming all the way to Lake Como, I think you need to get on the water at least once.

We took a private boat out onto the lake, and this is where I’d spend some of your activity budget.

Click here to rent your own boat!

The perspective changes completely from the water. The mountains surrounding Lake Como are absolutely incredible, almost unworldly.

Colorful buildings, villas and little towns line the shores while these enormous mountains rise behind them. You truly feel like you’re in a movie.

And suddenly you understand why people have been romanticizing this place for so long.

If you arent comfortable captaining your own boat, here are some other great options for getting on the water, but allowing someone else to do the work:

Lake Como: Classic Wooden Boat Cruise Tour

Villa Balbianello Shared Boat Tour with VIP Garden Entry

Lake Como Small-Group Boat Tour with Prosecco

Lake Como: Speedboat Tour with Prosecco, Photo Stop at Historic Villas

Exploring Bellano and the Orrido di Bellano Gorge

We also spent time exploring Bellano. We walked around, stopped for coffee and obviously a pastry.

On of my favorite things we explored was the Orrido di Bellano, the natural gorge right in town.

The gorge was carved over millions of years by the Pioverna River, and you walk through it on a series of suspended walkways tucked between these enormous rock walls with water rushing underneath you.

It’s dark, loud, wet and wonderfully dramatic.

And it feels slightly bizarre that something like this is sitting practically in the middle of this charming little lakeside town. 10/10 place to hide from the Summer heat also!

That’s something I really loved about Bellano. One minute you’re surrounded by rock walls and rushing water inside the gorge, and not long after you’re back outside with mountain peaks towering over insanely blue water dotted with sailboats.

Then we’d turn down another alley and find another café, another restaurant, another string of bistro lights making the whole place look charming and cinematic.

It has that effortless beauty Italy is annoyingly good at.

Even the landscaping around the houses looks like something people in Los Angeles would pay thousands of dollars to have designed to look that effortless.

Here, it just… grows.

Even Driving Around Lake Como Is an Experience

I need to talk about the tunnels. Driving from town to town along this part of Lake Como means occasionally disappearing straight into the mountains.

And yes, I know that’s technically what all tunnels do. But these didn’t always feel like the perfectly finished concrete tunnels I was used to. In places, the rock itself was right there. You could see water dripping through it.

You’re driving through what feels like the inside of the mountain, and then suddenly you shoot out the other side and Lake Como appears again.

Blue water. Mountains. Tiny villages. Sailboats. Then another tunnel. Then another town.

I loved it.

It made getting somewhere feel like part of the experience rather than dead time between destinations.

The Lake Como I Loved Wasn’t Just on the Water

I expected Lake Como to be beautiful. That wasn’t exactly a revelation. What surprised me was how much I loved everything surrounding the version of Lake Como I’d come to see.

The mountains. The tiny villages. The ridiculous roads. The houses scattered along the hillsides. The tunnels cut through rock. The places where you could look down and barely believe how far below you the lake had become.

Staying in Sueglio gave me a different perspective because we weren’t waking up beside the water every morning.

We were waking up above it. And every time we drove down toward the lake, we watched the landscape transform again.

Would that be the right Lake Como experience for everyone? Absolutely not. Which is exactly the point…

So, Where Should You Stay in Lake Como?

There isn’t one “best” place to stay in Lake Como. There is a best place for the trip you’re trying to have.

Stay Near a Train Station If You Don’t Have a Car

If you’re traveling around Italy by train, prioritize transportation before falling in love with an accommodation.

Varenna and Bellano are two places I’d look at if you want to stay along this side of the lake and remain connected by rail.

Look at where the train station is. Look at where the ferry is. Look at the terrain between those things and your accommodation. And don’t just look at the number of kilometers.

Again: maps are flat. Lake Como very much is not.

Stay in a Mountain Village If You Want Nature and Have Transportation

If you have a car and want something quieter, don’t automatically rule out accommodations farther from the lake.

Our stay in Sueglio gave us something completely different. We had hiking outside our door. We had quiet evenings in the mountains. We got to experience the drive between the villages and the lake.

And we had a host who became part of the story of the trip. I’d happily make that trade again.

Stay Lakeside If Convenience Is the Priority

If your dream is to wake up, walk outside, grab an espresso and immediately hop onto a ferry, stay closer to the lake. There is nothing wrong with prioritizing convenience.

In fact, if you have limited time, it may be the smartest thing you can do. You don’t get extra travel points for making your vacation unnecessarily difficult.

Choose the location that works with the trip you actually want.

Who I Would Recommend Il Larice d’Oro For

I would recommend Il Larice d’Oro to someone who has their own transportation and wants their Lake Como experience to include the mountains rather than only the waterfront.

It’s especially good if you enjoy hiking, nature, quieter accommodations and staying somewhere that feels personal rather than anonymous.

I’d also recommend it to travelers who genuinely enjoy meeting their hosts and learning about the people who live in the places they’re visiting. That’s a huge part of what made this stay memorable for me.

On the other hand, if you’re traveling entirely by train, want to walk everywhere or want restaurants, ferries and the lake immediately outside your accommodation, I’d choose somewhere farther down the mountain.

Not because one experience is better. They’re just completely different versions of Lake Como.

What to Know Before Choosing Where to Stay in Lake Como

If there’s one practical thing I want you to take from this article, it’s this… Don’t book accommodation around Lake Como based on the property alone.

Look at the map. Then look at the transportation. Check the nearest train station. Check the ferry routes. Check whether you’ll need a taxi. Check whether taxis are realistically available where you’re staying. Check the elevation. Check how long it actually takes to drive those seemingly short distances.

And if you’re staying in a tiny mountain village, ask yourself whether you’re prepared to drive up a tiny mountain-village road. Because “20 minutes from Varenna” and “20 minutes up the side of an Italian mountain from Varenna” are two very different pieces of information.

This is something I think about constantly when planning travel for clients. A gorgeous hotel in the wrong location can make an otherwise simple itinerary unnecessarily complicated.

And a property that looks inconvenient on paper can be absolutely perfect when its location is part of the experience you’re looking for.

This actually isn’t the first time staying outside the obvious tourist center has completely changed a trip for me. When I visited Cinque Terre, I chose to stay in Moneglia instead of one of the five famous villages, and for completely different reasons, it ended up being one of my favorite decisions of that trip too.

Lake Como FAQ

Is Lake Como the Same as Como?

No. Lake Como is the entire lake and surrounding area, while Como is a city located at the southwestern end of the lake. You do not have to stay in Como city to visit Lake Como.

Do You Need a Car in Lake Como?

No. Plenty of Lake Como itineraries can be done using trains and ferries, especially if you choose your accommodation accordingly. However, having a car gives you significantly more flexibility if you want to stay in smaller villages or higher in the mountains.

Where Should You Stay in Lake Como Without a Car?

I would prioritize a town with good train and/or ferry connections. Varenna and Bellano are two options I’d consider based on this trip, but the best location depends on the rest of your itinerary. The important thing is to choose your accommodation and transportation plan together rather than treating them as two separate decisions.

Is Varenna a Good Place to Stay in Lake Como?

Varenna can be a particularly convenient base because it gives you the picturesque lakeside experience while also having rail and ferry connections. If I were returning without a car, it would absolutely be on my shortlist.

Is Como City the Best Place to Stay for Lake Como?

Not necessarily. Como may be perfect for some itineraries, but don’t book there simply because you think visiting “Lake Como” means you need to stay in the city of Como. Look at which towns and attractions you actually want to visit first, then choose your base.

Is Sueglio a Good Place to Stay in Lake Como?

Sueglio is a completely different experience from staying directly on the lake. I’d recommend it for travelers with transportation who want mountains, hiking, nature and a quieter place to return to after exploring Lake Como. If your priority is being able to walk to trains, ferries and lakeside restaurants, I’d choose a different base.

Final Thoughts on Where We Stayed in Lake Como

When we left Il Larice d’Oro, I said something along the lines of, “Until next time.” I say that a lot when I travel. And every time I do, there’s a little part of me that knows damn well our paths will probably never cross again.

It’s a strange thing.

You can spend a few days in someone’s home. Sit with them. Hear their stories. Flip through a photography book filled with people you’ve never met in places you’ve never been.

And then you pack the car. You hug goodbye. “Until next time.” And you drive away.

Maybe there will be a next time. I hope there is. But the world is so damn big and so beautiful that I don’t know how I’m supposed to keep going back when there’s still so much of it I haven’t seen. One lifetime isn’t nearly enough.

And maybe that’s why these little encounters matter so much to me.

Our Lake Como trip wasn’t just villas and boats and pretty Italian towns. It was hiking out our front door. It was a private boat cutting across impossibly blue water. It was coffee and a pastry in Bellano. It was driving through dripping rock tunnels on our way to Varenna. It was white-knuckling our way around mountain roads. It was looking at a stranger’s photographs of people playing games around the world.

It was staying somewhere I probably wouldn’t have chosen if I’d been traveling by train  and being incredibly glad that, for this particular trip, we did.

So yes, where you stay in Lake Como matters. Sometimes because the right location makes your trip easier. But sometimes because choosing somewhere a little unexpected gives you an entirely different trip.

And I think that’s the version I’ll remember.