I’ve always believed that travel is about people as much as places, and nowhere has proven that more than Saba. This tiny Dutch Caribbean island, free of cruise ports and tourist trappings, feels like stepping into a living community. And at Cottage Club Hotel, owner Mark embodies that spirit. With a laugh as warm as the tropical air and a devotion to details such as fresh flowers, local art, and three different pillow density options (Yes, THREE!) he’s built a retreat that is quietly elegant, colorful, and deeply personal. His vision is simple: Preserve Saba’s vernacular charm, honor its heritage, and offer travelers a place where conversation matters as much as comfort. The result is a stay that feels less like checking into a hotel and more like being welcomed into a story.
This isn’t just another destination review, it’s the story of a place, and the people who make it feel like home.
Faces with Places: Meet Mark, the Owner
If Saba is an island that breathes authenticity, then Cottage Club Hotel is where that spirit takes shape in brick, wood, and flowers. Tucked into the hills with views that stretch from jungle to sea, the hotel feels less like checking into a property and more like being welcomed into a story.
That’s largely because of its owner, Mark. He isn’t just running a hotel he’s preserving a piece of Saba’s soul. The main building was once his childhood family home, and throughout the property you’ll find antiques, artwork, and small touches that root each room in history. His vision is clear: protect the island’s vernacular style, resist the pull toward generic beach-resort sameness, and create a place where every guest feels connected not only to the land but to the people who care for it.
Mark’s approach is hands-on, and it shows. Fresh flowers are placed in every room daily, not as a luxury but as a standard of care. Housekeeping slips in at just the right time, never rushing or interrupting. Towels and washcloths are abundant (a detail I’ll always cheer for), and even the locally made organic soaps and shampoos carry the fragrance of the island in their essential oils.
For Mark, these are not amenities, they’re invitations. Invitations to slow down, to notice, to feel looked after in a way that is both deeply personal and quietly elegant.
First Impressions of Saba
Saba defies the expectations of a Caribbean island. No cruise ships dock here, no all-inclusive resorts dominate the shoreline, no tourist traps beckon with neon lights. Instead, it’s an island of contrasts: rugged mountains, sweeping ocean views, and a community that feels like family the moment you arrive. For me, any place where the mountains meet the sea is somewhere worth lingering, and Saba delivers that in spades.
What makes it unforgettable is the way the island breathes differently depending on where you stand. Down near the water, the Caribbean air is thick and warm, heavy with salt and sun. But as you climb, it changes. The mountaintop breezes cool your skin, the air turns crisp, and suddenly everything feels lighter, like the island itself is offering you room to exhale.
And perhaps that’s why Saba feels so authentic. It hasn’t been polished into something it isn’t, it simply is. Or, as Mark, the owner of Cottage Club Hotel, told me:
“Saba is probably one of the last really authentic islands in the Caribbean.”
We flew into St. Martin and then caught the little Winair plane over to Saba, just 12 minutes in the air, but about $150 one way per person during the shoulder season. It’s definitely not a budget trip, and getting there takes some intention and planning, but that’s part of what makes Saba so special. You really have to want to go, and once you’re there, it feels all the more rewarding.
Before arriving, we set up airport transport with Peddy (WhatsApp: +599 416 7062), who ended up being our go-to for rides the entire stay. He and his son were absolute gems, always on time, endlessly kind, and born-and-raised Sabans who turned every drive into a mini tour. By the end of our trip, it felt like we were saying goodbye to friends.
Inside the Penthouse Suite at Cottage Club Hotel, Saba
We stayed in the Penthouse Suite, which takes up the entire upstairs of the main building. From the moment I opened the door, I felt both humbled and spoiled beyond words. This little girl from small-town Lake City, Tennessee was suddenly standing in a penthouse on one of the most stunning islands I’ve ever visited proof that sometimes passion and persistence can carry you further than you ever dreamed.
This wasn’t just a room, it was an apartment, likely larger than any apartment we’ve lived in during the past decade. Vaulted wooden ceilings stretched high overhead, their beams leading the eye to a glittering chandelier that seemed to hold the whole room in its glow. Sunlight poured through tall windows and glass doors, illuminating wide-plank floors and bouncing gently off whitewashed walls. The entire space felt airy and grand, yet warm, like being invited into a gallery that just happened to double as your home for a few days.
The living room was anchored by a deep blue rug patterned like a piece of history, with a white sofa and two geometric chairs gathered around a low table topped with fresh tropical flowers. Antique wood cabinets, carved statues, and blue-and-white ceramics shared the space with modern touches, each piece chosen with an eye trained by art history. You could feel Mark’s influence everywhere, this was décor meant to speak.
A dining table sat just off the full kitchen, a reminder that this suite was designed not just for staying, but for living. The bedroom carried the same balance of intimacy and elegance: a towering four-poster bed beneath another chandelier, draped in soft linens and, I must mention it agan, three different types of pillows. It felt as if someone had anticipated our preferences before we even arrived, layering in comfort so thoughtfully it bordered on clairvoyant.
And then, the bathroom. A marble sanctuary where crystal chandeliers caught the light, and a large window framed views of mountains plunging into the sea. Standing at the sink, toothbrush in hand, I realized how surreal it was to do something so ordinary while staring out at something so extraordinary.
The Penthouse didn’t just give us space it gave us a sense of being anticipated, and completely enveloped in beauty. Here, every detail mattered. Here, the simple act of being felt like a luxury.
You can book this stunning room here
Life on the Island
Saba has a way of disarming you with its simplicity.
Life on Saba isn’t about beaches and umbrella drinks. There are no beaches, at least not in the way people expect. A patch of sand might appear for a season if the sea feels generous, but most of the time it’s just volcanic rock meeting the Caribbean head-on. That’s the charm. You don’t come here for lazy afternoons in a deck chair. You come here because it feels like nowhere else.
There are ways to get in the water, but only on the island’s terms. Book a trip with Sea Saba and you’re suddenly hovering over a reef that looks too perfect to be real. I’ve snorkeled plenty before, never once felt uneasy. Here, I did. The reef drops fast, into a wall that just disappears into black. The kind of abyss that makes the hair on your neck stand up.
And then the life hits you. Turtles sliding past like they own the joint (Well, because they do). Reef sharks cruising slow, casual, like you’re not even worth a glance. Fish in numbers so thick you can’t see through them. In one snorkel, we saw more than anywhere else we’ve ever been. Beautiful. Terrifying. Completely unforgettable.
The tide pools are another version of the same lesson. You claw your way over sharp volcanic rock, waves smashing close enough to make you second-guess your balance, and then suddenly you’re lowered into calm water, clear as glass. Crabs, urchins, little fish, whole worlds tucked into lava pockets. Don’t get confused, though: you’re not swimming here unless you want to push through more sea life than I’ve ever seen in such a small amount of water. At a couple of points, I managed to wade in up to my waist, but that was enough. These aren’t infinity pools they’re alive in the best way. And for me, it unlocked something I hadn’t felt in years. Every step revealed something new to investigate. It was like being a kid again, wandering the woods behind my childhood home, splashing in the creek, turning over rocks to see what critters might be hiding underneath. That same curiosity, that same surprise only this time, it was the Caribbean serving up the adventure.
On land, the island is stitched together by hiking trails, more than twenty of them, carved into cliffs, forests, and ridges that seem to rise straight out of the ocean. The big one is Mount Scenery, a stairway of more than a thousand stone steps up through rainforest into the clouds, where the Kingdom of the Netherlands tops out at 870 meters. Or you can keep it lighter: the Sandy Cruz Trail, with its sweeping views, or the short climb up Thais Hill for a front-row seat to the sunset. Nothing here is casual, but everything is worth it.
Hiking Mount Scenery is no joke. Bring good shoes, and honestly, bring a walking stick or two if you can get your hands on them. Everyone talks about the climb up, more than a thousand stone steps, straight through rainforest, each one reminding you that “vacation shape” isn’t the same as “climbing-a-volcano shape.” I questioned my life choices more than once on the way up.
But it’s not the ascent that gets you. It’s the way down. That’s the part nobody warns you about, except for Mark, he defiantly did and we were so thankful we listened. After the rain, the steps turn slick, and all that gravity you fought against on the way up comes back with a vengeance. I had terrible shoes, so I basically clung to my husband the entire descent, half sliding, half praying. Pretty sure I disassociated just to get through it.
The only reason I even had a stick in my hand was because of Mark. Nowhere online do you read about how brutal the descent is, but Mark, with his trademark hospitality and his uncanny ability to anticipate anything and everything you might need, told us before we left: “Take a walking stick.” And we did. Looking back, I’m convinced it saved me.
Take my advice: the views are worth every single step, but don’t make the mistake I almost did. Pack decent hiking shoes. Grab a stick. Trust Mark.
That’s Saba. It doesn’t hand you anything. But if you’re willing to sweat, stumble, and maybe get a little scared, it gives you more than you thought you came for.
The heart of Saba, though, is in the people. One morning, we wandered into Saba Snack in search of breakfast. The place was closed, but the owner stepped outside, smiled, and offered to whip us up bacon-and-egg sandwiches with fresh juice. That kind of kindness is everywhere here. You’ll see it in the way strangers wave when you pass, the way people actually look you in the eye. Ask too many questions, and you’ll get humor with your answer. When I asked Mark about the police presence, he didn’t miss a beat: “They’re on permanent holiday.”
Everywhere you walk, fruit trees lean over the roadside mango, guava, passionfruit, pomegranate. It’s abundance hiding in plain sight.
While we were there, though, the island’s usual calm got shaken. A local man went missing on one of those trails. On an island this size, that’s not just news, it’s the only news. You couldn’t go anywhere without hearing about it. The grocery store, the bar, the café, everyone was talking, speculating, worrying. For days it felt like the whole island was holding its breath.
And then, on our last night, he was found. Alive. You could feel the relief crack through the tension like a storm breaking. The church bells rang, people spilled out into the street, strangers smiled and hugged, and for a moment the island’s heartbeat was one loud, collective cheer. It wasn’t polished or orchestrated, it was raw joy the kind you don’t forget.
That’s Saba. Small, stubborn, alive. You don’t just visit it, it pulls you into its story, whether you’re ready or not.
Island Bites and Favorites
Brigadoon – Our very first meal on the island, and what a welcome it was: romantic setting, warm service and a menu mixing contiental/Mediterranean mixed flavors with Caribbean touches.
Amonhana – This pizza and sandwich spot became a regular fallback spot for us, and for good reason. It was often open when others weren’t and had delicious and affordable pizza!
Saba Snack – We went twice and were touched by the hospitality. The home cooked meals felt comforting and local, fresh and full of flavor.
Chez Bubba Bistro – A French inspired Bistro tucked above the dive center.
Angelina’s – A small spot with a porch and friendly staff.
Colibri – A dreamy rainforest spot for pre-dinner drinks. Great cocktails, lush setting, and the kind of easygoing vibe that makes you want to linger.
Island Flavor – We didn’t make it here, but locals love it. A true Saban favorite known for hearty, home-style island cooking.
Tropics Café – Stunning views and a fun atmosphere. Drinks were great, but the food didn’t quite match the price. Still worth it for the setting alone.
Good to know: Restaurants on Saba each keep their own schedule, some open just a few days a week. Check their Facebook pages for the latest hours. It’s part of the island’s charm and means you’ll end up trying a bit of everything.
Why Cottage Club Stands Out
In a world of cookie-cutter resorts, Cottage Club Hotel is refreshingly unique.
“If I can’t go to a place that’s at least as nice as home, I’d rather stay home.” — Mark
This isn’t a property designed for mass tourism. It’s a heritage space that honors Saba’s past while offering travelers an authentic way to experience its present.
Here, success isn’t measured in room count. It’s measured in the flowers on your table, the care in the housekeeping, and the conversations you’ll remember long after you leave.
Mark had a clear vision when building Cottage Club Hotel: Keep it small. Just a handful of individually decorated rooms and cottages. Keep it quiet. No on-site bar or restaurant. Keep it authentic. Use local craftspeople for curtains, cushions, baskets, jams, and art.
Every corner reflects his philosophy of quiet elegance, color, and relaxation.
His favorite rooms? Cottage 1 (for its carpet), Cottage 2 (for its view), Cottage 6 (for its antique New Orleans trunk and velvet sofa), and the Penthouse (for its sheer grandeur). Click here to book one of these exquisite cottages!
Final Thoughts
If you’re looking for a “flop on the beach” Caribbean vacation, Saba isn’t for you. But if you want an island that feels alive with community, and a hotel that feels like a story as much as a stay, Cottage Club Hotel is the place.
It’s quietly elegant. It’s colorful. It’s relaxing. And most importantly, it has a face, a voice, and a heart.
This isn’t just a hotel. It’s a home.
💡 Travel Tip: Cottage Club is best suited for couples or solo travelers rather than families with young kids. Saba’s cliffs and rugged terrain aren’t exactly toddler-friendly, but they are unforgettable for those looking to connect, hike, and explore.
Dreaming of a trip to this beautiful island? You’re in luck! I’m not just a writer, but also a certified travel planner! Click here to start your adventure!
