Traveling and Anxiety
I regrettably do not speak very much German. In fact, my German is likely that of a 2 year old.
Yea I know, typical American. So how did I spend two weeks exploring a city where I do not speak the native language very well?
I’m glad you asked, I’d love to tell you.
First things first- Yes, My husband is German but during the day he is working so, for better or worse, I am free to roam alone!
Most people in Hamburg and Germany, as a whole, speak English which definitely always works in my favor but also really allows me to continue being lazy in my German language learning.
Unfortunately, anytime I travel anywhere the native language isn’t English I am always very hyperaware and extremely self-conscious of the fact that I only speak one spoken language fluently.
Now- this doesn’t mean I don’t try to learn more languages. I speak a little Mandarin from my time in Beijing, I know ASL (American Sign Language) and I am on an 40th day learning streak in my German lessons with Duolingo. If you also use the Duolingo app you know exactly what I’m talking about. Now- a 40 day learning streak isn’t anything to write home about but it’s something! Point is, like many others, I am unreasonably hard on myself.
You see, when sharing my experiences of traveling with family, friends and other onlookers often there’s this preserved idea that I’m “brave” or “fearless.” But, I’m here to tell you this couldn’t be any further from the truth. Ok ok Yea, maybe it appears this way and sure maybe there’s a slight truth to these labels but every single day I am in an unfamiliar place, I fight with the little, wildly expressive, waste of space voice in my head that tells me it would be easier to wait for my husband to get off work to go out and do anything. This way he could communicate/help me so I don’t have to be put in uncomfortable situations alone. Also, so I don’t have to be forced to step outside of my comfort zone.
EVERY SINGLE DAY
I push myself out the door in order to do what I love, explore and learn all I can about the new city or country I’m in.
Facebook and Instagram posts don’t show that I didn’t make it out the door until noon most days because I was fighting my own insecurities.
Facebook and Instagram pictures don’t show that out of 14 days in Hamburg, Germany I spent two days completely isolated in my hotel room because the pressures and thoughts of putting myself out there were to much to bare at times.
I am not immune to anxieties, self doubt or insecurities. But let me tell you something, I wake up every single day and sit with these thoughts. Sometimes I win the battle and sometimes I don’t but I recognize that, for me, what works best is to sit with my thoughts and pump myself up. Hell most days, I’m my own hype man! Ok, let’s be honest, maybe most days I bribe myself out the door with thoughts of a delicious drink or meal which undoubtedly turns into an absolute amazing day of exploring! Whatever works, right?
Of course I have an amazingly supportive husband but there are just some things I need to do alone and conquer alone. Not all the time- but sometimes the battle is within you and only with you.
I say all that to say this – Get out there and explore this big beautiful world! You don’t need to travel to far away lands and eat exotic foods, although it’s something I highly recommend!
Take the scenic route home. Try that new restaurant. Climb that mountain you’ve been thinking about conquering but haven’t because no one would go with you! Take that solo trip! Treat yourself to that weekend getaway or staycation. Start that hobby. Start another hobby. EAT THE CAKE!
But what will others think about me? What If I try and fail?
Who gives a rats ass? At least you made moves. Moves toward YOUR passion. Moves towards figuring out what YOUR passion is. Moves for YOUR happiness. Moves for YOUR life.
Life is meant to be lived. Go live!
Hamburg
Hamburg also know as “Germany’s gateway to the world” is a very proud and historically rich harbor city located on the Elbe River in Northern Germany. Shipping and trading has been the backbone of The Port of Hamburg for centuries which make it one of the top visited and sought out areas in all of Hamburg and blah blah blah…
This isn’t 10th grade History class and I’m definitely not a History scholar. You want to know more about the long history of Hamburg, google it. I’m here to get to the good stuff. Yea, you know what I mean THE FOOD! Ok, yes and with all the delicious food you will need to walk some of those delicious pretzel or Fischbrötchen (fish buns) calories off with some sight seeing around the city.
Going to Hamburg and don’t know what to do? Lucky for you I spent two weeks exploring and eating my way through this harbor city and will be providing you with an extremely honest account of what to do, see and most importantly EAT!
WE TRIED TO FIGHT IT!
Anytime we travel to a different area of the world where the time zone is significantly different from our current one we really try and fight the urge to immediately go to sleep when we arrive and, this time was no different. However, unfortunately, our heavy eyes got the best of us and, regrettably, we gave in.
With the confidence that we would have enough self control to wake up after an hour power nap, we set an alarm. After all, it was only 2pm when we made it to the hotel.
First alarm- I didn’t even hear to be honest and I’m 99.9% sure Max turned it off in his sleep and set another one.
After many alarms and multiple efforts in trying to wake the other up we finally ripped ourselves from our hotel bed around 6pm with the self administered motivation of the delicious food that awaited us, we were up!
First stop, Landungsbrücken for the famous Fischbrötchen! (fish bun)
Due to a great portion of Hamburg and its history resting and revolving around the Elbe River, there is undoubtedly some delicious water creatures to be had.
The Fischbrötchen (fish bun), being top on the list, did not disappoint! Think of a breaded fish fillet on the most delicious bread with a dollop of tangy tartare sauce. However, unlike most fish sandwiches I’ve ever had, this one was cold. I don’t just mean it had sat out for to long and lost a little temperature cold I mean like REALLY cold. Save your “Eweee…but I don’t like cold fish” comments. Apparently, that’s how you eat it in Hamburg. Your first Fischbrötchen is on me if you don’t like it. I don’t anticipate needing to make good with this offer because well, it’s that good! Words can not describe the quality of bread in this country. I mean, I’m no word wizard or anything, but I’ve tried. You just must try it for yourself!
After stuffing our faces with a Fischbrötchen we did some quick walking along the harbor to check out the beautiful harbor views.
Along the harbor there are many cafes, souvenir shops and restaurants of which most were closed due to it being the off season and likely in part to the freezing rain storm we were caught in but hey, we weren’t going to let it stop us from taking in some new sights!
Blockbräu
LET ME REMIND YOU – It’s day one and we haven’t stepped foot on Germany soil due to Covid-19 and Max’s immigration status. You can read more about that here, so we were definitely ready to dine on one of our favorite German meals – Schweinshaxe!
We found a restaurant called Blockbräu conveniently located near the harbor area right outside of the Landungsbrücken station. Here we indulged in delicious pork knuckle, pretzels, fried potatoes with bacon and onions, sauerkraut and of course two large German beers that were locally brewed in house!
Old Elbe Tunnel
After our very gluttons meal we took a walk through the Old Elbe Tunnel which takes you to the other side of the harbor. The tunnel was opened in 1911 and is 426 m (.26 miles) long and 24 m (78 ft.) beneath the surface of the river. It was originally constructed to allow a more direct route for dock workers from the Landungsbrücken piers in St. Pauli. While its free to cross by foot or bike you can pay a small fee to drive a car into the deep by use of hydraulically driven cages.
A different perspective is always a good idea. In fact, when it comes to life, it’s one of my go to coping mechanism.
After walking through the the tunnel, and onto the other side of the river, we had a new perspective of the Port of Hamburg. From this new perspective of the river we were able to see the pier where we had just explored in a whole new light. We saw a gigantic MSC cruse ship being guided through the river by the cutest little tug boat. However, don’t let the appearance of this tiny tug boat place any preconceived ideas in your little noggin about it being anything less than the beast that it is. While on a harbor boar tour I did, later on in the trip, I learned all about these tiny but mighty tug boats.
Morning Routine
A pretzel a day keeps the doctor away. Or, something like that, right?
Most mornings I would partake in my, self-made when in German, ritual of indulging in a pretzel and a coffee.
While Max was at work I kept myself busy by exploring Hamburg!
A unique aspect of Hamburg is the water public transportation or water taxis. I wanted to take advantage of this novel opportunity so I hoped on and took a ride down the harbor for a few stops. I got out at a random stop and decided I’d do some walking and have a look around.
Eventually the cold wind, rain and a full bladder got the best of me so I started looking for a place to stop in for a drink so I could warm up and use a toilet for free. (In Germany you have to pay anywhere from 25ct to 2€ to use public bathrooms)
Fishermen Bars
AND THERE IT WAS
The cutest little corner bar named, Ratsherrn-Eck. I walked up to the door all while rehearsing in my head what I was going to say. I repeated “Ein Bier bitte, ein Bier bitte, ein Bier bitte” (one beer please) over and over and over.
As I approached the door it was open and I noticed there was a table blocking you from entering. There were some words written in German on multiple pieces of paper on this table. I stood for a minute gazing in with the feeling that they could possibly be closed as I didn’t see anyone inside. The table at the front door also had a few beer bottles displayed on it seemingly to advertise what they could offer a soaking wet and cold traveler such as myself. I thought I’d wait just a minute or so and sure enough an older woman met me at the table.
“One beer please” I said in English. The nerve I had just worked up to order in German had escaped just as quickly as it came. Ah, well maybe next time, I thought.
Turns out they were only selling beer to go. I only knew this because she told me my total, I paid, then she handed me my beer and said “Tschüss” which is a way to say bye in German.
I’m sure I would have known this was the case had I been able to read the German written on the table!
There I stood outside with a full bladder in the cold rain. After quickly guzzling down my beer I took my empty beer bottle and awkwardly placed it back on the table at the door. I started off again in search of a place I could have a seat and get warm.
I walked right next door and saw another cute little bar. I walked in and again same story. There were pieces of paper with, what I now know, were instructions NOT to do exactly what I did…
It was a tiny bar. There were a couple of people who immediately locked eyes with me as I opened the door. I could feel the redness and heat of embarrassment start from my toes and make its way up to the tips of my ears.
Why are they starring? Do they know I don’t speak German? Am I doing something wrong? Should I seat myself? UGH – WHY DO THEY ALWAYS STARE! (If you’ve never heard of the “German Stare” I assure you, it’s a real thing.)
I didn’t see anyone who resembled an employee so I bellied up to the bar. Just as soon as I got my coat off I heard someone bust through, what seemed to be, a kitchen door. She let out the biggest sigh, you know, the sound you make when you are extremely annoyed with something or someone. Well, that someone was me.
She began yelling all types of German words at me, none of which I understood. After she finished, what seemed to be a five minute German rant, I, reluctantly, told her sorry but I don’t speak German. She then went on to explain, without missing a beat, while switching from German ranting to English ranting that I am to stay at the door until an employee can check my vaccine card to ensure I’ve had all three jabs before I can have a seat.
She went on to check my documents but by this time I wanted nothing more than to run out the door in embarrassment and never look back.
She checked my documents and all was good. Rather than running out, I sat down again and had a beer. The bar was warm, the beer was good and the toilet was free.
After my beer I took a walk and ended up at one of the most popular areas in all of Hamburg, The Fish Market. It’s really the place to be if you ever find yourself with nothing to do around 5am on a Sunday in Hamburg.
The Hamburg Fish Market isn’t only about fish. You can find mostly anything from clothing, souvenirs, fresh flowers and more! One of the most attractive aspects of the fish market is the energetic atmosphere. Vendors participate in a spirited shouting battle of sorts to try and attract customers to their stalls.
“Two for one salmon here!” One vendor yells while his neighboring stall vendor shouts “50% off today only!”
I didn’t find myself with nothing to do on a Sunday at 5am so I didn’t experience this energetic display of selling and bartering goods for myself, but have heard stories from Max and plan to make it back to experience it for myself next time we are in Hamburg!
After walking around the area for a bit I started to head back towards where the water taxi had dropped me off.
But, yet again, I found myself with a full bladder. Do you see a pattern here? Stop in for a beer but not only for the sole purpose of sipping on a delicious German beer but also to take advantage of the free bathrooms. Leave then repeat because well, when you break the seal…
I stumbled upon another super cute little bar that I later learned was one of Hamburgs oldest and most popular fisherman’s bar, Zum Schellfischposten.
Although still a bit bruised emotionally form my last bar experience, I cautiously decided to stop in.
Again I rehearsed as I approached the door “Ein Bier bitte, ein Bier bitte, ein Bier bitte.”
I walked in and immediately pulled out my vaccination card. I wasn’t going to make the same mistake again! No way, not this time!
No one approached me at the door so I slowly made my way to have a seat at the bar. As I sat down I was met by an older woman working behind the bar. She had a kind demeanor about her and a sweet smile. She asked for my vaccination documents (in German) and I promptly handed them to her very proudly because, this time, I knew what was being asked of me! After close examination she handed them back and asked what I wanted.
“Ein Bier bitte”, I said.
She gave me a kind smile and promptly poured me a delicious beer from the tap. I gave a slight sigh of relief. I was relieved she was able to understand my awful German pronunciation.
Wall to wall of this tiny bar was decorated with nautical memorabilia. It was warm and I felt comfortable. So comfortable in fact, I had built up the confidence to ask “Entschuldigung, wo ist die Toilette?” (Excuse me, where is the toilet.)
BAM! Two for two! She understood, and again, gave a sweet smile then directions to the toilet. It was one of those smiles where you know she knows. You know what I mean?
She knew that I was from the US due to my vaccination documents and likely from my very obvious non-native German speaking. But, she didn’t make me feel self conscious. Likely, she could see that I was trying and received it with such kindness and understanding.
I was feeling confident so, after returning from the bathroom I went on to ask for a glass of water in German!
By this time, it was near the end of Max’s work day and he decided to meet me at the bar for a beer before we went out in search of something for dinner. As Max approached the bar, the kind woman met him at the door and directed him to where I had been posted up for the last two hours sipping on delicious beer and reading an Anthony Bourbon book.
TO THE WOMAN AT THE BAR
I don’t know your name and you will likely never read this but in the rare and random case that you do, I want to say thank you. Thank you for your kindness, patience and hospitality. Your kindness allowed me the comfortability to step outside of my comfort zone and although seems as such a small interaction, it left a lasting impression. Thank you!
Döner Kabap
Max’s favorite food in the entire world!
While in Hamburg, we feasted on a hand full of different Döner shops. Döner Is very similar to what we would call in the states, shawarma. At each shop you typically have your choice of lamb, chicken or beef then they pile on a mound of veggies (sometimes both raw and cooked) then topped with delicious sauces you can choose from ranging from yogurt based to spicy. You also have the choice of preferred eating method. On a platter, in a delicious Turkish wrap or stuffed inside a peta bread. Some places will even make it into a pizza for you which I can tell you, with 100% confidence, this is Max’s preferred way to indulge in Döner.
Speicherstadt
The Speicherstadt or “The city of Warehouses” is the largest warehouse district in the world where the buildings rest on timber-pile foundations. This distract was built in order to avoid paying customs on goods. Here you will find rows and rows of large buildings seemingly built right into the river. It’s a beautiful area which offers gorgeous sights.
Rathaus
As I was exploring an area called AltstadtI, I saw a sweet little cafe called, Cafe Paris. The Cafe Paris was located near a beautiful building. Even though it was very cold, I decided to enjoy a beer outside and take in the views. As I typically did throughout the day, I sent a picture to Max of the beautiful view.
“Drink with a view” I said.
His response- “Walk around to the front.”
I didn’t know what the name of the building was I had decided to gawk over. I just knew that it was one of the most beautiful pieces of architecture I had ever seen. But after I finished my drink, I took his advice and started to walk around this gorgeous building. I walked and walked then there it was.
As it turns out, my previous view of this jaw dropping building was from the side. The Cafe Paris was positioned in such a way where yes, you had an amazing view of, What I now know to be called the Rathaus, but it was only a portion of what this alluring building had to offer. Only a small change in perspective allowed me the opportunity to really see the Rathaus and all it had to offer!
I grabbed a Glühwein mit Schuss (mulled wine with a shot) from a small food and drink vendor nearby then sat to enjoy the view, smells and cool crisp air.
After my delicious cup of Glühwein, it was time to meet up with Max! My favorite part of the day!
Local Delicacy
We met a couple friends at a restaurant called Frau Möller. We spent our time catching up and learning about their lives in Hamburg. It was a lovely dinner with great company and good food!
I dined on a local delicacy called Labskaus which is some sort of salted meat mixed with beetroot topped with fried eggs and served with a side of pickled herring. Max had Geschnetzeltes. Traditionally this dish is a combination of sliced meat in a sauce made from mushrooms and cream and served over Spätzle.
Hachez Chocoversum
As luck would have it, the majority of the 14 days we spent in Hamburg were very wet accompanied by some record breaking storms. I had to get creative in deciding where to spend my time. I couldn’t think of a better way to spend a cold, wet and windy day than in a chocolate museum!
The tour at the museum started out with a very informative, interactive and delicious tour of the chocolate making process. From seed to plant to the manufacturing processes the tour wasn’t only interactive and informative but also allowed the chance to taste every step of the chocolate making process. From the bitter cocoa seeds to the deliciously sugary end product and everything in between, it was a unique experience. Along the chocolate learning process the tour included the opportunity to make your own chocolate bar! I highly recommend a trip to the Hachez Chocoversum.
Best Restaurant
During our 14 days in Hamburg, we ate at many different restaurants. Hands down our favorite German restaurant was called Im Sprinkenhof. The food was traditional and exceptionally delicious. I had Pannfisch which consisted of three deliciously cooked fish fillets submerged in the most decadent house made creamy mustard sauce served with a side of them good ole German friend potatoes. Max had a schnitzel and said it was one of the best he’d ever had! We definitely recommend eating here if ever in Hamburg.
Our nights usually went a little something like this. We met somewhere delicious for dinner and drinks then we would take a walk somewhere to explore Hamburg together.
Reeperbahn
The famous Reeperbahn also know as die sündigste Meile (the most sinful mile) located in the St. Pauli district is one of the two centers of Hamburgs nightlife. The neon lit streets are home to many restaurants, clubs and bars. These same neon lit streets also have a much more scandalous side where you will find brothels, sex shops, strip clubs, sex museums and many more erotic gems.
Reeperbahn translates to ropewalk. The Reeperbahn use to be where ship ropes were made.
When we took a walk down the Reeperbahn it was, to no surprise, pouring. But, to be honest, It wasn’t a place where I necessarily felt comfortable. As much as I wanted to stop in somewhere for a drink, I was all to conscious that in some areas on of the Reeperbahn women weren’t even permitted. I didn’t want to accidentally stumble into a place where I wasn’t allowed to be. My honest account on visiting the Reeperbahn is sure, go have a look to check it off the list but it’s not a place I felt comfortable spending time at.
Miniatur Wunderland
Miniatur Wunderland was honestly very captivating. This was one of those experiences that I wasn’t necessarily looking forward to. It’s not really my thing, or so I thought. Even if miniature replicas of countries, beautiful landscapes and famous landmarks isn’t your thing, I can promise it’s still worth a visit.
The sheer magnitude of the entire museum is breathtaking. As of right now the building which holds this amazing artistry is 7,000m². (75,347.47sq ft) There are 497,000 LEDs, 4,340 buildings, 289,000 figures and about 250 miniature airplane flights that depart and arrive per day; And the list goes on. It has taken more than 990,000 working hours with more than 350 employees to complete and still today they are continuing the process of adding more and more with each passing year.
Give it a try! It’s worth a look!
Bar with View
Skyline Bar 20UP located at the very top of the Empire Riverside Hotel is a must do!
Here I go again, talking about perspective but I can’t help it nor can I stress the importance a change of perspective has had in my life.
Being able to see Hamburg from above was amazing! Max was able to point out the general location of most places I had been so far. I was very surprised to find out they were all relatively close to each other. Even thought I felt like I had trekked Hamburg North to South and East to West, with a different perspective on the city, I was able to see I had many more miles of exploring in my future!
While enjoying the view we indulged in some of the most delicious cocktails such as Gin Basil Smash (Tanqueray London Dry Gin, basil, lemon and sugar) Moscow Mule (Vodka, ginger beer, lime, cucumber, ginger) Cuba Libre (Ron Abuelo Añejo, lime and coke) and the Boozinga. (Saint James Rhum, Orgeat, Passionfruit, lemon)
The cocktails were an easy 10/10. They weren’t necessarily on the budget friendly aspect of good but the views were worth spending a little extra on some delicious handcrafted cocktails!
Planten un Blomen
I was told what a beautiful park Planten un Blomen was by a handful of people prior to exploring Hamburg. I was told It was a must see in Hamburg.
What I can tell you is none of these people went during Winter. I’m sure this park is remarkable to see during Spring and Summer but during Winter I wouldn’t recommend. It was a nice park to walk around and kill some time it was by no means this big elaborate display of thousands and thousands of flowers. I’d say definitely give it a try in the proper season!
Overall, Hamburg has so much to offer! Amazing views, delicious foods and drinks along with a fun and rich history surrounding the Elbe River.
